Laura does catwalking

The 80’s are back with a vengeance this coming winter, as seen strutting down the catwalk shows of Marc Jacobs, Alexandra Wang, Brasso and Brooke and Georgio Armani. From big shoulders, clashing colours, crazy animal prints and power dressing. All the things we love and hate about fashion from 1980’s is preparing to explode all over the high street within the coming months…so be prepared. Marc Jacobs led the way with this trend sending out bright pink jackets with enormous shoulder pads, high waisted denim, metallic tones and party dresses that looked like cocktail dresses circa 1984. When thinking 80’s this winter, channel Blade Runner and Banarama hair.

The influence of the masculine was evidence in several AW09 collections, from suits with a twist, dinner jackets and masculine tailoring. Designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Hussein Chalayan, Stella McCartney, Jil Sander, Burberry Prorsum all showcased influences from a more typical masculine wardrobe. This look was best seen in the collection of Jean Paul Gaultier, from his relaxed tailored suits to his office inspired skirts. His collection summed up the trend seen in so many AW09 designs.

Fashion reflects the times we live in, the changes that a society goes through and how those living in it are affected. Fashion in times of economic crisis can be said to take on a more sombre mood. This trend turns towards a more sophisticated way of dressing, pencil skirts with matching jackets, tailoring, tweed and hounds tooth print. Shown on a colour pallet of autumn tones such as burgundy, soft browns and dusky oranges. Designers such as Lanvin, Donna Karen, Michael Kors and Dries Van Noten all showed collections that consisted of obvious references to fashion of bygone eras such as the 1930’s, 40’s and 1950’s.

With D& G, Christian Lacroix, Richard Nicoll, Prada and Derek Lam paving the catwalks gold this autumn winter, it made for a bold contrast to the other more subdued trends that can be seen. Think gold lame, metallic fabrics, and leathers. From gold glam rock, futuristic metals and chunky gold jewellery. Flashes of gold could be seen in collections from Zac Posen’s gold embellished belts, D&G quilt inspired gold dresses to Richard Nicoll futuristic gold leather leggings.

By Laura Stonard

Giles

'GOLD BOOTS!' The cry went up from Spank HQ when we saw what the genius had sent down the runway. When, I ask, when are we ever going to get to wear gold, thigh-high boots again and be considered cool? The answer is never, so we're planning a winter of unabashedly glam dressing with transvestite overtones. Thank you Giles, we owe it all to you.

Oh 90s, we love you

Although nobody really wants to talk about it, the 90s have been sneaking back onto fashion radars for a while now, with a slick hair-do here and a grungy get-up there, here a check shirt, there a black dress, everywhere a belly top. Ah yes, the belly top. Prada did it, Maison Martin Margiela did it and here at Spank we are championing the midriff as the body part du jour. However you do it, get it out there. Go with Cushnie et Ochs for sleek 90s glamour - a high-waisted skirt and a boob-skimming fine jersey will do it. Or take note of Moschino Cheap & Chic with nothing but a waft of transparent gauze between you and the world. Mark Fast showcased cute little vests that looked ten years old and Preen went with cut-out panels, but whichever way you look at it, the belly's coming back this season. If you're feeling the trend but also feeling shy then try rocking Comme des Garcons layered look, which combined belly top with voluminous under-garment to make a look all their own.

Thom Humphris

If you've grown to despair of menswear and feel mildly nauseous at the thought of another day in jeans and bloody t-shirts, then stop where you are and discover Tom Humphris. The elegant draping, the gothic structuring, the immaculate tailoring and the sheer sex of it all is enough to make us weak at the knees. Once he's finished his degree at UCA Rochester, we're predicting huge things for this walking ball of talent. Commit his name to memory or severely regret it later.

Style Icons

It's that time of year again, when school girls take the day off and hope to be scouted by model agencies. When London is turned upside down by yet another fashion event. Yes boys and girls, it's the Clothes Show Live. They've polled our style icons of the 20th century and guess what? It's all boringly predictable. Bridget Bardot for the 70s, Madonna for the 80s, Kate Moss for now. We would like to have seen a little more imagination from the nation. A little less regular blonde sex symbol and a little more of women who embody unique beauty and power. What about Angelica Huston for the 70s, Grace Jones for the 80s and Tilda Swinton for now? Women who don't have to get their kit off, or reinvent themselves, or starve themselves to get attention. These are our nominations - what are yours?

Sew What

On the 21-22 of May, if you happen to be in the Midlands, head on down to Sew What to see the final collections of some of the most promising fashion design students in the world. Nottingham Trent University has long been building up its reputation as a mecca for great talent and this show will allow you to see them all in one place before they make their first forays into the big wide world. Tickets are £7 for a day show and £14 for the evening. Put on some silly shoes, go and pretend you're famous and rub shoulders with what could very well be the Next Big Thing.

SANS Digital Patterns

Do you have bags of clothes in the bottom of your wardrobe that have no right to be there? Things from your teens, things that should know better and cart themselves off to the bin. You can't throw them away because Auntie Jean/the neighbours/Santa gave them to you, but you're damn well never going to wear them. Fret no more my friends. Turn to SANS Digital Patterns. It's a simple premise. You visit the site and buy a simple pattern which you then download to your computer and print off at home. You can take your old clothes, or a scrap of fabric, or somebody else's clothes and follow that pattern to make a brand, spanking new t-shirt/jacket/dress. Perfect. So if you've got a sewing machine and the inclination, go for it.

Felicity Baggett

After sitting next to Felicity at the FAD Charity Fashion Show and watching her win second place, I wanted to catch up with her and find out what the future's holding and where she plans on ending up. I also wanted to ask her some silly questions, because that's what I do.

How's life been treating you since the FAD Charity fashion show?
The evening of the show was incredible, I feel so lucky to have such an amazing opportunity to show my work. I was however, quickly brought back down to earth with having to write my dissertation and start my final collection. I’m working long hours in the studio every day, even the weekends, but I’d rather be doing this than twiddling my thumbs.
What's the first thing you did this morning?
Turn off my alarm…three times.
What inspires you?
Films, music, history but mainly people. I love talking to people who are passionate about their work or a particular interest.

Describe yourself in three words.
Good as gold (sometimes)

Do you have any pets?
Nope, but one day I’ll have chickens.

What's the hardest part of designing clothes?
A blank piece of paper. I find it becomes easier during the development of a garment, when you see it in front of you it’s more obvious what needs altering.

What other designers do you admire?
Lucas Ossendrijver, Jsen Wintle, Aitor Throup and countless more.

What is your favourite place in the world?
The pub.

Who's better, Superman or Spiderman?
Superman, I hate spiders.

Tell us a joke.
What is E.T. short for?
Because he’s got little legs.
What's your fondest memory?
It’s a secret.

What’s your proudest moment to date?
It is probably coming second in the FAD competition. When I finished school I didn’t really want to go to university, so I never thought I’d achieve something like this. I was extremely nervous about getting up on stage to accept my award but was grinning for quite some time after. My parents and one of my best friends were there too and it was great to see how pleased they were for me.

What's your best trait?
I try to be reliable, I hate letting people down.

What's your worst habit?
Moaning.

What's your favourite tipple?
Sailor Jerry.

What can't you stand?
Boredom.

Tell us something that nobody else knows.
When I’m doing mundane jobs, like housework, I often count what I’m doing. For example, when I’m washing up, I’ll count how many pots I’ve washed. I’ve never told anyone that. Maybe some things are best kept to yourself.

Do you have any regrets?
Plenty.

Ever made a fashion faux pas?
I cringe at photos of when I first started going out. My dresses were always too short and too tight, and one of them was velvet. I think in ten years time, we’ll all regret being on Facebook!

Use the word Spank in a sentence.
Spanks for the interview.